posted
Just wondering if any of you have had your tires balance and requested "inside weights ONLY"? I know this can be a real pain for the installer but I was wondering if you felt any shimmy/hop/etc at 140+. I am asking cause I just ordered the GY F1 GS-DEs and I am considering asking for "inside weights ONLY" when I get the balancing done on Fri.
Thanks in advance, Lonnie
-------------------- 2002 EB Coupe, 6spd, Hurst Shifter, Corsa Pace Car w/GTR tips, modified air box lid, stainless steel letter front/rear, third brake light blinker, Bel 985 radar detector, clear rear cargo protector Posts: 109 | From: Colorado Springs, CO | Registered: May 2002
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posted
Lonnie, one of the first things I do around the first oil change is to get stick on weights put on and get ride of the factory clip on weights, I just thing they are ugly.
-------------------- Carl V. *Authorized Zaino Distributor* *Authorized Amsoil Dealer*
posted
I'm not sure what the limit is, but I know it's more complicated to put the weights on the inside.
I've looked at Hunter's website and read over the specifications for some of their balancing machines and found that only a few of them can really be used for inside weights. Even then, it sounds like placement is critical.
Make sure that the tech cleans the inside really well. And make sure there is clearance between the weights and the rotors.
-------------------- 99 Navy Blue Metallic, black interior, 6 spd, Z51, HUD, R8C (Museum Delivery featured in the Jan 02 issue of Vette) Posts: 4600 | From: Long Island, NY | Registered: Nov 2000
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posted
I worked in a Goodyear dealership for many years when I was younger and I'll give you my experience. With a balance machine that allows the inside weight only option (most do) the job is very simple for the technician. The machine tells you exactly how much weight to put on and where to put it. You then respin and it tells you if it's OK or not. Now the other side of the coin. A inside weight only balance is vastly inferior to a balance job where weights are placed on both edges. The inside weight only option is a single plane balance much like the old bubble balancers found in Service Stations. A modern Computer Dynamic/Harmonic balancer is capable of much better. Let them put weights on both sides. Nobody will notice those weights but you. We fixed many ride complaints by switching to both side weights in my days in the tire shop.
Posts: 65 | From: Fort Collins Colorado | Registered: Feb 2002
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posted
I have worked at Discount Tire and Sears. The best balance is with weights on both sides. But I would agree that clip on weights dont look good on the outside. You can use the clip on the inside and stick on weights behind the spokes, so to speak. Stick on weights do tend to come off easier. But I would go with this combo.
Posts: 1 | From: TEXAS | Registered: Jun 2003
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posted
I realize this bringing an old thread but would like to have some input about 'Road Force Balancing'. My Vet has a sort of drumming sound in the rear tires and would like some input from someone that is familiar with this or has had it done.
Thanks, Keep on Vettin' and Save the Wave
-------------------- Love the 50th. Anniversary Coupe!! Posts: 167 | From: Mandan, ND | Registered: Feb 2007
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quote:Originally posted by PHLYNLO: I realize this bringing an old thread but would like to have some input about 'Road Force Balancing'. My Vet has a sort of drumming sound in the rear tires and would like some input from someone that is familiar with this or has had it done.
Thanks, Keep on Vettin' and Save the Wave
Road force balancing is the only way to balance a tire, IMHO. You can learn more at http://www.gsp9700.com/
Can you elaborate on the sound you are hearing?
Posts: 4600 | From: Long Island, NY | Registered: Nov 2000
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Hi, Bruce The sound that I hear is not a pounding sound but like driving on a road with a rough surface that does not change if driven on different surfaces. It does seem to be more pronounced at speeds up to 35-40 MPH and gets somewhat less over that. Thanks for the reply.
Happy Vettin' and Save the Wave
-------------------- Love the 50th. Anniversary Coupe!! Posts: 167 | From: Mandan, ND | Registered: Feb 2007
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posted
Are you sure it's coming from the tires? I had a noise, similar to what you described, and it turned out to be the rear diff. You might check the fluid just out of curiousity.
posted
Thank You all for your replies, now I have a Monday morning project to have the fluid checked. This was not one of the avenues that I was thinking along but will definitely have it done. But if this is something that I can do, let me know what the procedure is.
Keep on Vettin' and Save the Wave
-------------------- Love the 50th. Anniversary Coupe!! Posts: 167 | From: Mandan, ND | Registered: Feb 2007
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posted
I allow my mech to do it, but mainly because I seem to get lazy around fluid change time. I think you'll need a 10mm hex bit and 1.6 Liters or 1.69 quarts of GM P/N 12345977 (3 Bottles) and one bottle of axle lubricant friction modifier GM P/N 1052358. Lift the car, use jack stands, drain the old, refill with the new and the modifier, do some slow figure 8s and find a place to dispose of the old fluid.
I'm horrible at explaining things, so maybe someone will add to this in case I forgot something. I need coffee.
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Smokensparks: Your directions are quite complete and I agree with coffee during the proceure BUT you forgot one important step. How about a beer afterewards if the job went well. Just kidding, this website has some great members.
Keep on Vettin' and Save the Wave
-------------------- Love the 50th. Anniversary Coupe!! Posts: 167 | From: Mandan, ND | Registered: Feb 2007
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