posted
Why is there an entry in the DIY list for "Change Brake Rotors and Pads " but no article behind it. I am about to replace my rotors and pads and would've like to read a step by step DIY on this. What to brakekleen and what to grease. Just some helpfull hints for somebody never having done such a thing.
posted
You should search the forum, there are several discussions about this, but overall, it's pretty straight forward. The caliper bolt is factory tightened to about 120Lbs with red locktite, so it might take a bit of strength to remove. Be sure to lubricate the friction/slide areas between the caliper and the mount.
Other than that, a few suggestions...
Change brake fluid at the same time. When compressing the pistons back into the caliper, loosen the bleeder valve so as not to force bad fluid back to the master cyclinder.
Not much else I can remember, but I am sure there are step by step posts on this forum of you search a bit...
posted
Patrick Thank you for your help. You are right about the step by step but all the good information like torque numbers etc are scattered all over the place on this board and i just hoped somebody did a good wirte up about it. thanks again for the help. I do have some braidd brake lines that i want to put on but im worried to do it myself. seems complicated.
posted
The braided brake lines are reported to cause problems with the abs something to do with the wheel speed sensors. You might research before you install. Use good quality rotors and pads but especially good rotors there are lots of junk ones out there. I really recommend the ceramic acdelco pads unless you autocross the car. good luck! I agree with Patrick's advice
Posts: 3005 | From: Pennsylvania | Registered: Jul 2001
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posted
well damnit. i read up on the braided line and read nothing about problems. shoot. yes i got th cermaic delco pads and delco drilled and slotted rotors
posted
If they are the Goodrige lines, you should be okay. Make sure you have new copper washers.
As for the DIY page, that was set up years ago in the hopes people would write articles. But, it was never a priority.
Posts: 4597 | From: Long Island, NY | Registered: Nov 2000
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If you use aftermarket bolts to attach the new braided lines to the calipers, be careful that you don't over torque them, they will distort and/or snap in half much easier than the OEM bolts (ask me how I know this). They might be the one OEM component that's better than the replacements.
When removing the caliper bracket mounting bolts, a breaker bar and a large hammer (preferrably a dead blow) might come in handy. Don't be afraid to whack the shizzle out of it.
When bleeding the brakes after you have everything back together, some type of power bleeder and/or speed bleeders will make it soooo much easier unless you have a competent helper available.
Make sure you also bleed them in the right order... '97-'00 is RR, LR, RF, LF '01+ is RR, LF, LR, RF
Make sure the parking brake is released before pulling off the rear rotors.
Another good DIY link here , even if the pics aren't currently working.
Something uses an 18mm wrench, which isn't in your average set.
posted
Wow, great guys. maybe ill write something up with pics from a noob perspective and document some of the pitfalls a novice mechanic can encounter. thanx again for jumping in guys.
posted
When I did mine I bought 3 but used less than 2 quarts with replacing the lines and a complete drain/refill of the calipers.
Posts: 1620 | From: North Augusta, SC | Registered: Apr 2003
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posted
this is the sequence i think i should proceed with. 1. take old rotors and brake pads off. 2. replace oem brake lines with briaded ones. 3. put new brake rotors and pads and assemble everything. 4. Do the fluid replacing/bleeding procedure.
One more tip. Get yourself some of the rubber brake line "plugs" at your local auto parts store. They're about 3/8" diameter, maybe 1.5" long, and will prevent your fluid from leaking out of the system while the lines are off. If you let it drain and the ABS module looses fluid you could be in a bad situation. Let the metal lines stay filled, and just bleed out the old fluid and refill the reservoir as needed to get the new fluid in.
Posts: 1620 | From: North Augusta, SC | Registered: Apr 2003
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