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» C5Forum.com » C6 Specific Topics » Z06/LS7 Specific Topics » Checking engine oil/ LS7

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Author Topic: Checking engine oil/ LS7
86Z51
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Is there any special procedure for checking engine oil specific to the Z06 LS7?
Posts: 1085 | From: arizona | Registered: Nov 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Chewy
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A cut/paste from the '07 owners manual pdf:

Checking Engine Oil (Z06 Only)
It is a good idea to check the engine oil level
every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate
reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle
must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
The dipstick is located on the dry sump engine oil
tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on
page 328 for the location of the dry sump engine
oil tank.
Z06 models have a racetrack-ready dry sump
engine lubrication system. This high-performance
system operates differently than a standard
engine lubrication system and requires a special
procedure when checking the engine oil level.
Follow this procedure closely when checking the
engine oil level.
The engine oil level must be checked when the
engine is warm. Cold oil level in the dry sump tank
may not indicate the actual amount of oil in the
system. With this system, engine oil is contained in
an external tank, separate from the engine.
Under normal operating conditions, the oil pan
under the engine does not store any oil. If
the vehicle has been parked for an extended
period without the engine being started, some oil
will seep back into the oil pan, reducing the
amount of oil held in the dry sump tank and there
could be no engine oil at all showing on the
dipstick. This is normal since the dipstick is
designed to read engine oil level only after the
engine has run long enough to reach normal
operating temperature.
Do not add engine oil based on cold engine
dipstick readings. The engine oil level on the
dipstick will also be inaccurate if checked while the
engine is running.
1. To obtain an accurate engine oil level
reading, warm up the engine to at least
175°F (80°C). Cold oil will not give a correct
oil level reading.
2. Once the engine is warm, turn off the engine.
Checking the oil while the engine is running
will result in an incorrect oil level reading.
3. Wait at least five minutes (but not more than
20 minutes) to allow oil to drain and settle in
the engine.
4. Remove the dipstick from the external engine
oil tank and clean it with a lint-free paper
towel or a cloth. Re-insert the dipstick into the
external oil tank, pushing it all the way in
until it stops.
5. Remove the dipstick from the oil tank and
read the level on the cross-hatched area.
Oil levels that fall in the cross-hatched area
are normal.
When to Add Engine Oil (Z06 Only)
If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the
tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at
least one quart/liter of oil through the oil fill cap
opening in the oil tank. But you must use the right
kind. This section explains what kind of oil to
use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see
Capacities and Specifications on page 427.
See Racing or Other Competitive Driving on
page 290 for additional information on engine oil.
Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine
has so much oil that the oil level gets above
the cross-hatched area that shows the
proper operating range, the engine could be
damaged.
See Engine
Compartment Overview
on page 328 for the
location of the external
engine oil tank and
fill cap.
Be sure to add enough oil to put the level
somewhere in the proper operating range. Push
the dipstick all the way back into the oil tank when
you are through.

[Cheers]

Posts: 2373 | From: North Augusta, SC | Registered: Apr 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
86Z51
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Thanks, Chewey. It belongs to a friend and I'm co-driving with him. He is not very mechanical so I figure I'll have to take the lead on making sure the car is serviced correctly.

It's a good opportunity for me to see how the car does without going out and tying up $70,000. My impression is that the car is not bad for open track or fast autocross courses, but the steering is too slow and the wheel base too long for a more typical tight course.

Posts: 1085 | From: arizona | Registered: Nov 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
motorman
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quote:
Originally posted by 86Z51:
Thanks, Chewey. It belongs to a friend and I'm co-driving with him. He is not very mechanical so I figure I'll have to take the lead on making sure the car is serviced correctly.

It's a good opportunity for me to see how the car does without going out and tying up $70,000. My impression is that the car is not bad for open track or fast autocross courses, but the steering is too slow and the wheel base too long for a more typical tight course.

just disconnect the front anti sway bar for tight courses and the turn in will open your eyes. some clubs set up their courses so the smaller cars can win FTD but with the front bar disconnected you will surprise them.DO NOT try this on a fast course.

--------------------
corvette owner since 1959,new corvettes owned,59 62,63,64,65,66,97,99,02,05,2008 coupe, race engine builder,former NASCAR tech inspector

Posts: 657 | From: pa | Registered: Dec 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
86Z51
Full Throttle Member
Member # 968

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I've set FTD several times with the car already. I don't think your idea would work except for the tightest parking lot course. I drove a car with in excess of 550 hp that had been set up that way (actually set up for drag racing) and it was undriveable. Throttle on oversteer was unmanageable.

I can't do anything about the steering or the wheel base, but with the right balance, you can pitch the car around corners and still catch it on corner exit. I'm just about there, now.

Thanks for trying to help, though.

Posts: 1085 | From: arizona | Registered: Nov 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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